December 29, 2010

From Thailand To Cambodia - A Memorable Overland Journey

By Lyndsey Abercromby

Transport in Cambodia - Never dull!
From Chang Mai the journey began. I decided to fly back to Bangkok, even to a budget savvy traveller the appeal of a night in a bed before the long journey to Cambodia was worth the additional £6. That was until the flight was delayed, I didn't get to bed until 2.30 am and the bus to Cambodia left at 7 am the same morning. The journey from Bangkok to the Cambodian border was comfortable, starting off in a nice air-conditioned coach with plenty of spare seats to stretch out in, followed by a minibus and then a motorbike side-cart across the border. All was going well.

One across the border a group of us were shepherded into the back of 2 pick up trucks. We were told one of the bridges on the road to Siem Reap was broken, therefore we were to travel in the trucks to the bridge before meeting the bus at the other side of the broken bridge. The pick up trucks were so crowded, we had 12 people in addition to the 20 rucksacks which were forming temporary seats for more people who couldn't fit onto the ledge at the edge of the truck. For the first hour or so the journey was fine, the scenery was so amazing, completely different to Thailand. I hadn't expected such a contrast. The road, however, was the worst condition dirt track i have ever seen, with huge lorries and buses and motorbikes all charging along.
They don't seem to drive on any particular side of the road and road rules do not seem to apply.

Five very bumpy and uncomfortable hours later (by which time nearly 14 hours had passed since we left Bangkok), we eventually get to the broken bridge. We carry our bags across the bridge and get on the not so luxurious Cambodian bus, again with more people than seats, and definitely more bags than people. Again a little crowded but things were looking good, at least now we could hope to sleep for the 2 hour journey to Siem Reap, sleep on the pick up trucks would have led to us falling off the back. 30 minutes into this stage of the journey however, we again came to a halt. This time a lorry had got its chassis stuck in one of the potholes and was blocking the road. There were about 20 other lorries queued behind the one that was stuck, most with drivers sleeping in their hammocks underneath.

Residents of the local village had gathered to try to free the lorry, but with no success. Meanwhile, the local children were fascinated with seeing 'white people'. I spent the 3 hours we were stranded there playing games with these children, teaching them songs such as 'The Hokey Cokey' and 'Heads, Shoulders, Knees and Toes'. I knew my days as a play leader would come in handy sometime! Amazing doing this whilst also seeing fireflies and watching the moon set, very pretty.

At 2 am another pick up truck eventually arrived to take us to Siem Reap, this was even more crowded that the one earlier in the day. 1 1/2 hours later we were anticipating our arrival at our destination when the truck swerved to avoid a broken down car, once again the road was blocked! Yet again we were stuck. At least we were now on the outskirts of the city and a minibus soon arrived to take us onto the final bus stop, from where I hailed a motorbike taxi to take me and my huge rucksack on to my hostel. I eventually arrived at the hostel at 4am, 21 hours after setting out and very tired.

With hindsight do I wish I'd stumped up the money for the short flight from Thailand to Cambodia? Not one bit. Yes the flight would no doubt have been quicker and easier but this was a journey that I will remember forever.

Since returning from her travels, the author remains keen on travelling around the world. In her spare time she also enjoys working on her other interests which include trying and promoting experience days in the UK, and helping out with her partners web design Chester business.




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Cu Chi Tunnels - A Lesson in the History of the Vietnam War

Examples of Cu Chi Guerrillas
The Cu Chi Tunnels near Ho Chi Minh City are an incredible destination for war and history buffs. During the Vietnam War it was the major battleground between the U.S and Viet Cong.

In the heart of the jungle, 200km of tunnels were well hidden from American soldiers.  Originally built to protect the Vietnamese from French air strikes in the lat 1940's to 1950's, they were re-used during the 60's as a staging ground for attacks on American troops.

Surprisingly, the U.S. knew that the tunnels were there, they simply could not find them or destroy them.  They put everything they had into taking out the tunnels from dispersing agent orange and napalm to relentlessly dropping bombs, but the caves remained in tact.  The land didn't fare as well and the jungle was completely destroyed along with everything in it. Today it is thriving once again however, showing that with time, the earth can repair even the harshest results of destruction.

original entrance to a tunnel
If you are lucky, you may receive a first hand account from a former Vietnamese soldier.  Guides will tell you stories of their time in the war and can give you information on intimate details of the war that took place in this jungle.  If you listen carefully, you can learn a great deal about history.

The Viet Cong used the jungle to their advantage.  They could run through with ease, knowing their way around their own land and had several cave entrances at the ready to disappear into.  They were hidden well with termite hills placed atop, or with leaves scattered above.  Guide dogs could not follow their scent because they would sprinkle cayenne pepper around the entrance confusing the dogs and making them turn in the opposite direction.  They could safely disappear into the 200 km system and if followed, the American soldiers couldn't fit inside anyway. The entrances were tiny and made for a slight frame, for a large U.S. soldier, fitting in would be almost impossible without blasting it.
Making "Ho Chi Minh" Sandals from old tires

They knew their tunnels well, unlike the American soldier. They would enter the tunnel avoiding the booby traps placed to kill or maim the enemy.  Several different types of crude traps were laid in wait for the poor soldier that had to follow them in or the soldier that was sent to investigate upon a discovery.

There were other tactics besides the tunnels that offered the Vietnamese an advantage against the United States. Surprisingly, foot rot was a major problem with U.S. soldiers. The heat and humidity of the rain forest caused sores, rotting flesh and infection. When your major form of battle is to walk through the jungle this can be a serious problem. Instead of wearing boots, the Vietcong wore rubber sandals made from tires. They are well constructed and durable and you can see them for yourself. If you want to try them out, buy a pair for a nominal fee.

It is impossible to imagine how people managed to live in these tunnels for several years. The passageways were very tight at less than a meter high and they were dark and filled with disease. They had to deal with insects and venomous snakes and the fear of being found out. However, the Vietnamese managed to carve out a way of life however building kitchens, living areas and first aid stations.

M41 Tank "destroyed" in location by Cu Chi Guerrilla's in  1970
Your tour will take you to all of the different types of living quarters and rooms. It is a comfortable tour and the tunnel walls have even been blasted out to make it larger and more comfortable for tourists.  However, there are still some original entrances available to be explored and you will have the opportunity to go into an original tunnel yourself and crawl for 150 meters experiencing what it was like during the war.

Your guide will take you to an original entrance which is simply a very small hole in the ground.  He will show you how to enter and then you are on your own to squeeze through and make your way to the other end.  It can be frightening indeed, but be sure to give it a try. It is a crazy experience to crawl through these tiny tunnels and imagine what it must have been like for its inhabitants.

After you have thoroughly explored the caves, you will also learn other ways that the Vietnamese managed to defeat America. They could track soldiers easily in the jungle by using plants. You will see how they cooked only during the foggy mornings to hide their smoke and you will learn how farmers smuggled food to the Vietcong. It is a very informative day.

Bang Bang............shot an AK-47 at Cu Chi!
Now that you have learned all that there is to know about the Cu Chi Tunnels, you will be given the opportunity to feel what it was like. Believe it or not, you are given the chance to fire and AK 47. Or can choose your automatic weapon of choice and for the cost of $1 a round you can feel the power of these destructive weapons by firing them at the shooting range completing your Vietnam war tour.

Visiting the Cu Chi Tunnels will definitely give you a feeling as to what life was like during the Vietnam War.  It is unbelievable to think that these tunnels remained in tact through two major wars. One with the French and one with the Americans. If you are visiting Ho Chi Minh, they are certainly worth a visit.

Debra Corbeil is one half of Canada's Adventure Couple with her husband Dave Bouskill. Together they have traveled to over 30 countries on 5 continents. Follow their journeys at http://www.theplanetd.com as they hike, bike, dive, trek and climb their way around the globe. You can also see their photo stories at http://www.picturetheplanet.com.

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December 27, 2010

Can Tho City At Night

Below are two images from Can Tho City in Mekong Delta.

The images were taken from the top of the Golf Hotel. A great place located on the river in the middle of the city.

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December 23, 2010

Cheers Cambodia

Now Open! 

If you're looking for a gay friendly (and straight friendly!) hangout during your travels in Cambodia, head to the seaside town of Sihanoukville and check out the newly openly Cheers Cambodia.  

Sihanoukville is well know as a great beach getaway and a fabulous location to leave the hassle and bustle of the "big smoke" to explore remote tropical islands and pig out on seafood! 

Getting there is easy via numerous bus companies that run up and down the highway several times a day from Cambodia's capital Phnom Penh.

So check it out and make sure you share your thoughts on this new establishment right here on VietnamandCambodia.com! 

For owner Les: 
The 100% gay but straight friendly venue in Sihanoukville.
Cheers Cambodia is pleased to announce, after months of searching for the perfect property, after looking at hundreds in the rain and sun, after much preparation, blood, sweat and tears, Les and all the staff are delighted to say we are now open.
Please visit our website if you would like to be one of the first guests to stay at Cheers Cambodia. 
Les and his staff - Cheers Cambodia


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December 21, 2010

The Preah Vihear Temple - So You Thought Cambodia Only Had Angkor Wat?

If you are thrilled and fascinated about the archaeological treasures and mystique of the Angkor Wat through its depiction in popular media, and are yet to learn more about what Cambodia has to offer, than you would be thrilled to know that there is even more wonders to discover. The Preah Vihear Temple, located in the province with the same name next to the Siem Reap province, where the Wat is found, is one of the most important historical attractions in the country. The Preah Vihear Temple is located on the very edge of the northern frontier of the country with Thailand.

You will be amazed to learn that the construction of the Preah Vihear Temple had started even before that of the Angkor Wat. Its foundation was laid three centuries earlier than that of the Wat, in the 9th century by the Khmer Emperor Yasovarman I. The construction of this great temple continued into the reigns of successors Suryavarman I and Suryavarman II, the architect of the Angkor Wat itself. The Temple is located on a 525 meter high cliff in the scenic Dangrek Mountains, which run between Cambodia and Thailand.

The Preah Vihear Temple was built in honor of the Hindu deity Shiva, and given its grandeur you can tell that it was a special temple of its time. The temple like traditional Hindu temples is built on an elevation, with a massive stone staircase leading to it, with no less than 162 steps. But probably your first sight of the temple will be that of one of its Gopuras, or elaborate entrance platforms, which stand prominent welcoming the visitors. In fact, these Gopuras have become a symbol with which the Preah Vihear Temple is widely recognized.

The architecture and structure of the Preah Vihear Temple will leave you awestricken. The temple is built with four layers and also contains four courtyards. Among the features of the Preah Vihear Temple, which the tourists really look forward to, the Palace on the third floor and the Nagaraj Courtyard are the most important. The Nagaraj Courtyard is particularly interesting with the beautiful seven-headed snake sculptures, as this part of the temple is dedicated to snake, one of the symbols associated with Shiva. But nothing can compare to the breathtaking view of the Cambodian plains from the temple cliff, which you should not miss on your trip.

As mentioned earlier, the Preah Vihear Temple is located just on the border of the border of Thailand and Cambodia, and it is worth noting that it has actually been in the middle of a bitter border dispute between the countries over which country gets to keep this historical asset, which really tells you about its importance. In 1962, the International Court of Justice put an end to the row by awarding the site to Cambodia. However, you can also access this wonderful site from the Thai border. Wherever you may be in the world, but if you are interested in the wonders of the Khmer Empire, then a trip to the Preah Vihear Temple is a must, which was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.

Soben Ly is a writer for various travel websites. His latest article is about the Khmer Rouge.
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War-time posters find new life as art

Vietnamese wartime posters featuring President Ho Chi Minh or heroic images of liberation fighters have become popular souvenirs for tourists.

The posters are common items alongside jewellery, clothing and more routine memorabilia like elephant figurines and keychains in the narrow, congested streets of Ha Noi's Old Quarter tourist district.

"It is a souvenir with a style element, at a reasonable price, more interesting than a cheap ‘fashion' bag that you can find in all these shops," said a German tourist, who gave his name only as Fritz.

He had stopped at an Old Quarter shop where his eyes feasted on poster portraits of Ho, the country's revolutionary leader who died in 1969 at the height of the war against the US.

The sale of posters began in the 1990s when Viet Nam's economy opened to the world and the number of tourists started to explode.

"Foreign tourists wanted to buy things linked to the war," said Nora Taylor, a specialist in the history of Vietnamese art, at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago (SAIC).

She said from Chicago that while many buyers think they have found a treasured, authentic historical object, a unique item from the war era is extremely rare.

An authentic poster dating from the conflict against French colonisers about 60 years ago, or from the later war against the Americans, sells for between US$300 and $2,000, according to owners of galleries which display the originals as well as cheaper copies that sell for as little as $5.

Pham Ngoc Manh, 33, who owns two Ha Noi shops, said he owns about 100 original posters obtained from their creators or from people close to them.

"I sell very few originals, mostly reproductions," said Manh, who estimates that only between 2,000 and 3,000 authentic posters survive.

"When Uncle Ho says ‘Victory', then we will win," declares one poster under a portrait of Ho Chi Minh, the 
founder of the republic, on a red background.

"Nixon must pay the blood debt," shouts another, which shows the former northern Viet Nam being targeted by a bomb carrying a picture of Richard Nixon, the late US president.

Some posters, newly reprinted, include slogans translated into English to please the visitors.

"For many tourists, it's a souvenir of the war rather than an object of art," Taylor said.

Among Vietnamese, though, there is little interest.

"Without tourists there wouldn't be any business," said Nguyen Bach Tuyet, 48, a gallery owner.

Manh, the other retailer, also has few Vietnamese customers. "They see enough of those things in the street," he said.

The authorities still hangs their slogans throughout the country. Billboards featuring Ho Chi Minh or war-era fighters do not dominate the landscape but they can be seen in some places. Key political and social events are heralded with red banners strung across main streets.

"Vietnamese suffered incessant wars for generations. Maybe by the time the fighting finally ceased, they did not want to be reminded too much," said Richard di San Marziano, curator of the private "Dogma Collection" of original posters from the 1960s and 70s available for viewing only on the internet.

"Maybe they will become interested" one day, added the Briton who lives in HCM City.

San Marziano said foreign visitors are greatly interested in Vietnamese patriotic posters because it is "vigorous, fresh and interesting compared to other countries, and the work itself is an historical document."

Source - Vietnam News (English)


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December 20, 2010

Phu My Hung Sunset

Phu My Hung at Sunset 

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December 17, 2010

Vung Tau - Vietnam

Vung Tau Sunset
During 14th and 15th centuries, the cape that would become Vũng Tàu was a swamp which European trading ships visited regularly. The ships' activities inspired the name Vũng Tàu, which means "anchorage". The Portuguese navigators passed Vũng Tàu many times and named it after Saint Jacques[disambiguation needed]. The French invaded Vietnam afterwards and called it Cape Saint Jacques. The cliff of Vũng Tàu is now called Mũi Nghinh Phong (literally meaning "Cape of breeze welcome").

Vũng Tàu was originally referred to as Tam Thắng ("Three Boats") in memory of the first three villages in this area: Thắng Nhất, Thắng Nhị, Thắng Tam. It was within the province of Biên Hòa under the Nguyễn Dynasty. Under the reign of king Gia Long (1761–1820), when Malay pirates built a base here and subsequently became a danger to traders in Gia Dinh city, the king sent 3 troupes of army to crack down on the pirates. The pirates were ousted and soldiers of these troupes were given the land as a reward.

Vung Tau
10 February 1859 marked the first use of cannons by Nguyễn's army, when they fired at French battleships from the fortress of Phước Thắng, located 100m from Vũng Tàu's Front Beach. This marked an important period in Vietnam's war against French invaders in South Vietnam (then called Cochinchina).

In 1876, according to a decree by the French colonialists, Vũng Tàu was merged in Ba Ria county, under Saigon's administration (French: circonscription de Saigon).

On May the 1st 1895 the governor of Cochinchina established by decree that Cape Saint Jacques would thereafter be an autonomous town. In 1898, Cape Saint Jacques was merged with Ba Ria County once again but was divided again in 1899.

In 1901, the population of Vũng Tàu was 5,690, of which 2,000 persons were immigrants from North Vietnam. Most of the town's population made their living in the fishing industry.

Central Vung Tau
On April 4, 1905 Cape Saint Jacques was made an administrative district of Ba Ria province. In 1929, Cape Saint Jacques became a province, and in 1934 became a city (commune).

The French governor of Indochina, Paul Doumer (who later became President of France), built a mansion in Vũng Tàu that is still a prominent landmark in the city.

During the Vietnam War, Vũng Tàu was home to the Australian Army and American support units, and was a popular spot for in-country R&R for U.S. combat troops. After the war, Vũng Tàu was a common launching place for the Vietnamese Boat People fleeing the communists.

On May 30, 1979, Vũng Tàu town was made the capital of Vũng Tàu-Côn Đảo Special Administrative Zone.

On August 12, 1991, the province of Ba Ria-Vũng Tàu was officially founded and Vũng Tàu town officially became Vũng Tàu city.

Read more at Wikipedia


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December 15, 2010

War memorabilia goes on display in Ha Noi

Many never return from war. Through keepsakes and photographs, however, it is possible to keep their memory alive.

To help us somehow come to terms with the great sacrifice made by those who died in the war-torn 20th century, the Museum of Military History in Ha Noi has launched an exhibition of war memorabilia.

On display are 1,033 personal possessions and war memorabilia from 11,000 items donated over the last three years.

The museum's campaign, launched in July 2008, received the support of surviving war veterans and martyrs' relatives. US veterans and their families also donated precious keepsakes in response to the appeal.

Major-General Le Ma Luong, the museum's former director, said it was vital to preserve the memories of those who lost their lives in Viet Nam's various campaigns so that younger generations could fully appreciate the great sacrifice made by their forebears in the name of peace and freedom.

"The campaign holds significant social meaning as it highlights Viet Nam's glorious feats of arms and teaches us to respect those who devoted their lives to the revolution," Luong says.

General Vo Nguyen Giap was the first person to respond to the museum's appeal, donating many of his most precious war memorabilia.

Memorabilia from the French and American wars was donated by martyrs' relatives and veterans themselves such as former Party General Secretary Le Kha Phieu, General Pham Van Tra and Colonel Nguyen Van Ich. Their private letters to their relatives are also on display.

Former American serviceman Henry Prunier, 86, donated 200 documents, pictures and videos to the collection – the largest contribution by a foreign veteran. Prunier was a member of the US intelligence Deer Team, who answered Ho Chi Minh's call to join the war against the Japanese in Tan Trao in northern Tuyen Quang Province in 1945.

Even though the personal belongings are intrinsically of little value, visitors to the exhibition will be able to understand more fully what the dead and their surviving relatives had to endure in the name of peace. One such item is the bicycle belonging to Lang Si Thuy.

Thuy was injured in battle and sent to a military hospital in central Thanh Hoa Province. Even before the young soldier's wounds had healed he begged to be allowed to rejoin his comrades at the front in Quang Tri, where the battle was very fierce. Despite doctors' objection, he discharged himself from hospital and borrowed his sister the bicycle, which he pedalled 450km to Quang Tri to be with his companions. He left the bicycle at a local woman's house in Vinh Linh District and told her he would come back to collect it after the war. If he was killed he told the woman his sister would collect the bicycle for him, and he left his sister's name and address. His sister later collected the bicycle on her dead brother's behalf.

Accounts such as these have been published in two books by Cong An Nhan Dan (Pubic Security) Publishing House.

The exhibition organisers – the Museum of Military History and Tien Phong (Vanguard) newspaper under sponsorship of North Asia Bank – will also be granting prizes to the winners of the War Memorabilia Writing Contest launched by Quan Doi Nhan Dan (People's Army) newspaper that has been running since April.

The exhibition's closing ceremony on December 19 will be broadcast live on VTV1.

Source - Vietnam news

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December 14, 2010

A photographic journey on the Saigon River

The images below were taken last weekend when my family and I headed down to Vung Tau on board the good old Hydrofoil! The journey takes just under an hour and a half and allows you to see the Saigon River from a different perceptive.

Cost of the trip is 200.000VND one way, kids under 6 are free and boats leave from around 6.30am until 4pm. More images from Vung Tau will appear soon.

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