November 28, 2009
November 27, 2009
Focus on Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Twenty kilometers south of the city at Choeung Ek lie the world-infamous and fly-infested Killing Fields, the pits and trenches that served as mass graves for victims of the ultraMaoists. In the middle of the fields stands a soaring monument to the thousands butchered in the area. Shelves carved into the monument groan under the weight of scores of skulls of the victims. They were bludgeoned to death rather than shot, in order to save bullets and to speed up the process of the brutalization of the murderers.
These tightwad terrorists, in their attempt to turn the clock back five thousand years, decreed that anybody who could use a pen should die. They turned Phnom Penh into a ghost town but failed to kill its spirit: the city now has a population nudging 2 million - as many souls as died nationwide during the 1975-1979 reign of terror.
Like the Laotian capital Vientiane, Phnom Penh is compact enough to cover on foot. Its tree-lined boulevards lined by cream-hued French colonial villas radiate charm. So too does the starkly named but intriguing National Museum. Blessed with the aura of a shrine or monastery, the dusty red building's high-ceilinged galleries house dazzlingly patterned prehistoric jars and Angkor-era statues of kings and Hindu gods.
The museum's courtyard sanctuary teems with shrubs, hedges, statues, trees and ponds studded with lotus blossoms. Buddhist monks complete an stereotypically oriental scene and underscore the city's religious roots.
Phnom Penh started life in 1372 as a monastery, founded by a rich Khmer widow called Penh, after she discovered four Buddha statues in a tree trunk on the banks of the Mekong.
Now, the so-called 'Pearl of Asia' is awash with a new wave of tourists. Some are attracted to that magnet for upwardly-mobile Cambodians, the green-domed Sorya mall. Others are drawn by Sisowath Quay's lightly spiced Khmer-French fusion dishes, such as green mango seafood salad. Lined with palm trees, the quay, which lies just over the road from the museum, has a 'next Prague' vibe and dozens of bars and restaurants offering air-con and roadside seating.
Just down the Tonle Sap river, which supports a floating village and a crocodile farm, stands the royal palace's Silver Pagoda, Phnom Penh's most striking temple. Mysteriously spared by the Khmer Rouge, the pagoda serves as the official temple of the King of Cambodia and in no way suffers from understatement. Partly remodelled with Italian marble on the exterior, inside it is inlaid with over 5,000 silver tiles. The glitz reflects the lustre of the statuary: a 17th-century green-tinted crystal figure known as the Emerald Buddha of Cambodia, and the near-life-size Maitreya (messiah) Buddha, encrusted with 10,000 diamonds. Good karma and a touch of divine guidance might come in handy because, as in so much of southeast Asia, the traffic is anarchy.
Discard assumptions about rules of the road. Prepare to see mopeds freighting pigs or with as many as six people aboard. Phnom Penh is wild but also lovable in the same way as an unruly child: its chaos is part of its charm.Feel free to do pretty much what you like, except criticise the Government. Obviously this injunction on criticism doesn't itself comprise criticism of the government. The authors and publishers of this book think that Cambodia's totalitarian regime is simply wonderful - but then again we would say that, as on our next visit we'd prefer not to be asked any difficult questions by any of the government's thought police.
Avoid getting drunk and straying down dark lonely streets in pursuit of the vibrant night-life. Stick to populous areas such as Sisowath Quay because, after sunset, the well-armed town with a dark past has an edge.
That said, Cambodians are renowned for their ability to smile: wherever you go, it always seems to be happy hour.
Simon Ramsden is resident in Ao Nang, Thailand and runs Thailand climbing trips to Koh Lao Liang, Koh Yao Noi, Koh Phi Phi and Railay/Tonsai.
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Images By Adam Hurley - www.imagesfromvietnamandcambodia.com
Asian Travel Overland - Simple Tips That Can Save Your Asia Trip!
Asia Travel
Asian travel, particularly the independent kind, can not only broaden your horizons but also expose you to out-of-the-ordinary sights, country hopping & border crossings into and out of Cambodia are not the hassle they used to be, but a bit of research means you will always be prepared
Since I was backpacking during my first trip through Cambodia, air transport was not an option. So I entered by boat from Vietnam using the four-day Mekong delta tour from Ho Chi Minh City through Chau Doc and up the river to Phnom Penh. It is sitll in operation and highly recommended).
I left Cambodia by boat from Sihanoukville to Koh Kong (now no longer operating), then took a moto from the dock to the Thai border. Until cheap flights from Bangkok began, I generally used overland crossings and still do on occasion. Whatever, it all goes to show that if you do a bit of research, going overland can be an enjoyable experience and is often cheaper, more scenic and include stops in communities that don't get much in the way of tourist traffic.
However, these crossings can be fraught with difficulties. So find out ahead of time if entry visas are available at your crossing and be in a position to dispute arbitrary fees at the crossing. Knowing the "standard" prices can make a big difference.
The standard process usually involves checking out of one country and getting to the entry station of the next. At some crossings the stations are a short walk, but at others you need to have transport. There are numerous crossings between Cambodia and Laos, Thailand and Vietnam.
Vietnam: to/from Phnom Penh the two most common crossings are Chau Doc (Kaam Samnor, Cambodia/Ving Xuong, Vietnam) and Bavet checkpoint (Bavet, Cambodia/Moc Bai, Vietnam). Chau Doc is often used on Mekong river trips and, as you might have guessed, is close to Chau Doc on the Vietnam side. From Chau Doc it is about five or six hours by minibus to HCMC. The Bavet route is a common crossing for bus and taxi trips between Phnom Penh and HCMC. It usually takes six to eight hours by bus and is a good option if you want to go straight to HCMC. The main bus companies start and stop in Pham Ngu Lau in district 1, HCMC.
To/from Kampot or elsewhere in southern Cambodia there are also two main crossings. Phnom Den, Takeo, Cambodia/Tinh Bien, Vietnam is closer to Kampot than Phnom Penh and also close to Chau Doc in Vietnam.
In mid-2007 the Ha Tien crossing (Prek Chak, Cambodia/Xa Xia, Vietnam) opened for foreign travellers.
Thailand: the main northern crossing to/from Phnom Penh or Siem Riep is Poipet/Aranyaprathet, Thailand. This route is notorious for officials and transport people overcharging travellers, so do your research and stay calm. Many travellers book packages through tour ncompanies to simplify this trip, but it is not difficult to arrange for yourself. It has to be said, though, however, the packages are often cheaper. On the Thai side, a train takes you easily to or from Bangkok.
The main southern crossing used to/from Phnom Penh or Sihanoukville, is the Cham Yeam checkpoint (Koh Kong, Cambodia/ Had Lek, Thailand). With recent road improvements on the Cambodian side and the bridge to the border, this is a more manageable trip and my preferred crossing.
The Dom Kralor, Cambodia/Voeung Kam, Laos, crossing comprises two close deals: one overland, one over water. Both are accessible from Stung Treng, which is about an eight-10 hour bus ride from Phnom Penh. The crossing into Laos is fairly straightforward but many have talked of "fees" of a buck or two on each side of the border.
Traveling to Cambodia? The Cambodia Pocket Guide is always free! Get free copies everywhere in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Angkor Wat and Sihanoukville.
Free online Cambodia travel hotels flights and nightlife. http://www.cambodiapocketguide.com
Looking for cheap travel in Asia? http://www.cheapcharlieshotels.com
November 26, 2009
A Photographic Journey Around Tonle Sap Lake - Cambodia
Tonle Sap Lake
The Tonlé Sap large body of water (Cambodian meaning "Large Fresh Water River," but more commonly translated as "Great Lake") is a combined lake and river system of huge importance to Cambodia. It is the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia and is an ecological hot spot that was designated as a UNESCO biosphere in 1997.
The Tonlé Sap is unusual for two reasons: 1) its flow changes direction twice a year, and 2) the portion that forms the lake expands and shrinks dramatically with the seasons. From November to May, Cambodia's dry season, the Tonlé Sap drains into the Mekong River at Phnom Penh. However, when the year's heavy rains begin in June, the Tonlé Sap backs up to form an enormous lake.
For most of the year the lake is fairly small, around one meter deep and with an area of 2,700 square km. During the monsoon season, however, the Tonlé Sap river, which connects the lake with the Mekong river, reverses its flow. Water is pushed up from the Mekong into the lake, increasing its area to 16,000 square km and its depth to up to nine meters, flooding nearby fields and forests. The floodplain provides a perfect breeding ground for fish. Read More At Wikipedia
All images By Adam Hurley
Welcome to Ho Chi Minh City!
Ho Chi Minh City is the largest city in Vietnam. The city center is situated on the banks of the Saigon River, 37 miles (60 kilometers) from the South China Sea and 1,094 miles (1,760 kilometers) south of Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam.
Over the past decade, Vietnam has been improving its legal infrastructure, banking systems and overall economic and social environment. On January 11, 2007, the country became the 150th member of the World Trade Organization. Today, the local business community is as enthusiastic about the country's growth and future potential as foreign investors are. In fact, foreign direct investment in Vietnam is expected to reach US $15 billion in 2008, which is more than double from the same period in 2007.
Ho Chi Minh City is the financial hub of Vietnam with over 300,000 businesses in industries such as technology, electronics and construction. It is a fast-paced city that is growing rapidly both in terms of its industry and its population. The city's vibrant culture and historical ambiance--combined with an optimistic workforce (many of which have no direct memories of the war with America that ended in 1975) -have catapulted the city into one of the fastest growing economies in Asia.
The local language is Vietnamese but English is spoken almost everywhere. All foreign restaurants have English-speaking staff and most taxi drivers speak a little English. The street and store signs are in Vietnamese.
Learning at least a little Vietnamese will make life easier and efforts to do so will be appreciated by the locals.
All foreign visitors are required to get a Visa. A foreigner who comes to live and work in Vietnam usually obtains a visa through his or her sponsoring organization. For a three- or six-month work visa, a passport and an invitation or assignment letter will need to be produced. The passport with a relevant visa is the most important document for a foreigner in Vietnam. It is recommended that all visitors register with their local Consulate or Embassy upon arrival in Ho Chi Minh City.
The local currency is Vietnam dong (VND). The dong comes in notes and coins, which range from 200 to 500,000 VND. It is advisable to take US dollars into Vietnam and exchange it upon arrival. US dollars can be used and changed although dong is the most commonly-used form of payment for everyday purchases such as groceries. Larger establishments accept credit cards but they will levy a 3-5% service charge. Smaller local markets only accept cash.
There are many foreign banks in Ho Chi Minh City and accounts are easy to open. Most banks are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 3pm. There are automatic teller machines (ATMs) available around the clock all around Ho Chi Minh City.
Utilities are extra and will need to be paid separately and usually with cash. Furnished homes are decorated to suit the taste of the landlord, and such styles might not appeal to the typical expat. It is sometimes possible and becoming more common to negotiate with the landlords of unfurnished properties and purchase furniture to that of your own taste, dependant on the length of your lease.
Ho Chi Minh City is not, overall, a dangerous city. However, petty theft and house break-ins concern many expats. A home security system is not very expensive and is recommended.
International schools are very popular with Ho Chi Minh City's expats. British, Australian, French, Japanese and Korean international schools are all available but they can be quite expensive. There are many to choose from but it can be difficult to secure a spot. The British International School and International School of Ho Chi Minh City have pre-school programs. The school year starts at the end of August and ends in early July.
The water in Ho Chi Minh City is not fit for drinking from the tap but is more than safe for brushing teeth and cleaning dishes. Bottled drinking water is delivered to the home or purchased from a store. "Pharmacy" in Vietnamese is "Nha Thuoc Tay" and they can be found throughout the city. The Vietnamese word for "doctor" is "Bac Si."
It is recommended that travelers to Vietnam have a variety of vaccinations such as hepatitis A and B, Japanese encephalitis and typhoid, in addition to Malaria capsules. Visitors should bring an extra supply of prescription medications as they might be hard to come by in Vietnam. Healthcare facilities in Ho Chi Minh City are limited but are ever improving with the opening of International clinics.
There are a few foreign health care providers that have different things to offer. These include International SOS, Columbia Saigon Clinic and the Franco/Vietnamese Hospital. If the scope of care needed is beyond what's offered at Ho Chi Minh City's foreign hospitals, visitors can be evacuated to Singapore or Thailand. It is recommended that all visitors research this information as soon as they move into their new home.
The rapid growth of the city has created unbearable traffic throughout the city. Since traffic laws are not strictly enforced and driver's education is limited, patience on the roads is mandatory. Visitors who wish to drive will need to obtain a Vietnamese driving license. Typically, expats have their own car and driver. People drive on the right side of the road. Ho Chi Minh City does have buses, but they are very crowded.
To travel outside of the city, there are trains going out every day and there are rental cars available. Taking a mini-bus is another option. These are small, air-conditioned and clean.
Expats might want to bring along their favorite designer-label clothing, cosmetics and sporting goods--as the genuine articles are hard to come by in Vietnam. There is more choice when shopping in Ho Chi Minh City than there is in other cities. For large-sized clothing or shoes, it is recommended that expats bring enough clothes to last through their stay. Finding apparel that fits can be very challenging, though custom tailoring is an option.
The stores of serviced apartments sell foreign items. Local markets are used for fresh dairy and produce where bargaining is the norm. It's a good idea to learn the numbers in Vietnamese and it's best to not seem too interested in an item. When bargaining, one should make an offer and leave if it's not accepted. If the seller changes his mind, he will call the person back. A good rule of thumb when bargaining is to give a counter-offer of half the price originally offered, and then bargain to a middle point. Also, a smile goes a long way!
Counterfeit merchandise--from handbags to mineral water--is everywhere in Ho Chi Minh City. It's best to buy such items from department stores or other official retailers rather than street vendors. For other household items such as cleaning materials and home furnishings, Ben Thanh Market and Diamond Plaza are two places to look for such items in Ho Chi Minh City. Ben Thanh Market is the home of everything one could ever need such as clothing, shoes, home furnishings, keepsakes as well as fruits, vegetables and some other very interesting food.
Spouses are permitted to work however, finding employment can be difficult. In addition, there are professional associations specifically for women. For recreation, joining a golf and tennis group is a popular option. Bars and restaurants are popular hangouts. Beside expat groups, clubs like the International Ladies of Vietnam, Amicale des Francais (a French association) and various business organizations are very popular.
Playing or watching sports, traveling to local beaches and riding in go carts are also among the city's favorite diversions for kids. School-related activities are ideal for teenagers looking for something to do. Clubs and sporting activities are very very popular. One can enjoy tennis, squash, swimming, badminton and Rugby (Aussie rules) are just a few.Chris Draeger, Group Vice President, Crown Relocations
Crown Relocation's has been providing international moving and relocation services since 1965. With 200 offices in 50 countries, Crown has "people on the ground" in all the major Expat communities around the world. Crown provides a range of services to help Expats and their families move and settle into their new home ranging from Orientation Tours, Home finding, School Search and more.
Crown also organizes Expat Clubs with regular events to help people meet and socialize with other Expats.
We also serve corporate clients as they develop and manage the relocation policies and employee benefit programs for the staff moving overseas. Services include expense management, program development, policy counseling, customized online reporting and full departure and destination services for the employees.
Crown is a private organization headquartered in Hong Kong, with European HQ in London and Americas HQ in Los Angeles California.
Crown provides free moving quotations on its website at http://www.crownrelo.com
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All Images By Adam Hurley - See More From Vietnam and Cambodia!
November 25, 2009
Hoi An, Vietnam - Top Ten
© Photographer: Goodolga | Agency: Dreamstime.com
By Simon Ramsden
Hoi An
If you fancy upgrading your wardrobe with shiny new threads, Hoi An is the place. Every other shop in this small, perfectly formed central Vietnamese town belongs to a tailor who will happily whip up a pair of slinky pyjamas or a silk kimono ('made-to-measure, Visa or Mastercard'). It will be made from the fruit of locally bred silkworms and, with luck, will fit perfectly and carry no size tag.
This fashion hub and Unesco World Heritage Site has long been a class act. In the 16th and 17th centuries, it was an international port called Faifo swarming with Chinese and Japanese merchants. Today, the exotic trader influence shines through in the shrines, silk shops, bridges and quaint tile-roofed wooden houses.
Because many of the downtown streets are closed to cars and even motorcycles on some days, they are great
for a wander. Although most shops target tourists, unusually for Vietnam, much of the town has been conserved. A heritage time capsule, this living museum of Vietnamese culture offers visitors the tranquility many need as an antidote to the mania of the country's cities, and from their lives back home.
The limited development that has been allowed has unfolded sympathetically, resulting in a minimum of tower blocks and karaoke parlours and a general lack of tat and tack. It feels "boutiquey" rather than "souveniry", to echo one observer.
When you tire of the lanterns, kites and looms, there is no need to pack up and leave. Just beyond the fringes of this most picturesque of towns, you will find plenty of momentous attractions, if little in the way of golf, although the area has five world-class courses in the pipeline.
Tempted? Hoi An is just down the road and is far quieter than Hanoi. Instead of honking horns and revving motorbikes, the prevalent sounds are whirring sewing machines, clinking chisels and softly shuffling flip-flops topped by sibilantly humming voices.
Give in to the temptation to fall into a trance, but try to snap out of it when you take a taxi, as you are still in the most commercial of countries. Confirm the cost and destination. Otherwise, expect to arrive at the wrong hotel, to be charged way too much and then to be stung for extras, such as for having too many shopping bags or for any other reason your driver can concoct, such as being a large person, or your belt causing wear-and-tear on the upholstery.
Finally, ensure you have plenty of traveller's cheques or stacks of cash. The reason: as in much of Vietnam, the ATMs have the distressingly capricious habit of, like casino one arm bandits, dispensing cash at random intervals or not at all.
For wireless internet access on what some Vietnamese call your 'toplap', try the Hai Scout cafe at 111 Tran Phu Street. Alternatively, try another old quarter stalwart, the chic and bare-bones Art Cafe at 30 Thai Hoc Street, which is a good place to relax and soak up Hoi An's ample atmosphere. "It nice," as the sign says.
Simon Ramsden lists the top ten attractions in or near a town with four UNESCO World Heritage sites within easy reach:
1. Japanese Covered Bridge
Surprisingly short and stocky, Hoi An's most famous landmark has a tall story behind it. The story begins with a monster called Cu, which was so big it had its head in India and its tail in Japan. The products of its nether regions, which are situated over Vietnam, have been credited with most of what is good, and bad, in the country's history.
In the 1590s a covered bridge was built in Hoi An to link the Japanese side of town with the Chinese quarter. According to the story, because the bridge spanned the weakest part of the monster, the pressure killed it.
Hence the shrine of atonement halfway across.
As if that legend were not odd enough, one entrance is guarded by a pair of monkeys and the other by a pair of dogs.
2. Hoi An Harbour
To see the harbour at its most magical, rise at daybreak and go to the bridge. A guide will take you out on a wood-boards-and-peeling-paint ferry for a fresh, laid-back take on the town. Bobbing and lolling around, you may feel that you have stepped back in time to the age of Marco Polo.
3. Tran Family Worship House
Ringed by a garden and high fences, the Old Town house could more accurately be described by a bourgeois word you are still not meant to use. Infused by Chinese and Japanese influences, the temple, sorry house, was constructed by a mandarin named Tran Tu Nhac.
Intriguingly designed, it splits into the main worship part and an annex for family and guests. The worship hall has three doors, each for a different type of visitor.
The left door is for men, the right for women. The middle door, for the grandparents, is opened during the Tet new year festival and on other celebratory days. If the place feels too rigid for your taste, try Phuc Kien Pagoda - the assembly hall-cum-temple for Chinese from the Fujian province who worship the Fujian god Tien Hau.
4. Cargo Club Restaurant and Patisserie
One of the joys of Hoi An is the eccentric English displayed on menus. Think "grilled tofu with grass" and "banana pancake with bile honey".
Set in an ancient, two-storey shophouse on one of Hoi An's liveliest streets, the Cargo Club at 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street serves up a few linguistic oddities of its own, including 'alsatian baguette'.
Nonetheless, the food is reliably delicious and diverse. The repertoire includes everything from spicy seafood noodle soup to roasted fennel and goat cheese salad. Adding to the attraction, the club has chic dark wood decor and a balcony that commands sweeping views of the harbour.
To get so close to the water that you could drink it, try Citronella Cafe at 5 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. But stick to the bottled water. For the purest water you can find, visit any of the stalls and cafes that sell green coconuts, where the vendor will hack one open for you with a machete. The coconut is free, but expect to pay for the straw to suck the juice out with.
5. Zen Spa
Founded to promote traditional Vietnamese therapy, Zen Spa (zenspa.com.vn) has two local branches. One, at the Hoi An Hotel, is right in the heart of town. The other, at the Hoi An Beach Resort is further out, by the seaside. Pampering services that come under the Zen Spa brand include facials, foot treatments, body scrubs, Pearl of Asia (incorporating exotic Thanh Long or 'dragon fruit'), Heaven and Earth (gentle body scrub with a great coconut aroma), The Five Elements ('fresh herbals and silver coins with ginger wine') and Forever Together ('fresh leaves and herbs'). Different.
6. Cua Dai Beach
So much appears in print about Hoi An's old quarter that the visitor may forget that the town lies beside the South China Sea. Fringed with palm trees, Hoi An's beach, Cua Dai, boasts clean white sand that stretches all the way to Danang and is short on hawkers: a blessing in a country where you are far too often assailed with the demand "You, buy my things."
7. Marble Mountains
These mountains are named after the crystalline metamorphic limestone from which they formed. Blessed with soaring, incense-filled caves and pagodas, the Marble Mountains have seen it all, fulfilling roles at various times in its history as a temple complex, battleground and hospital. In the latter of these roles injured Vietcong would convalesce whilst watching the ant-link figures of GI's playing on the beach below, oblivious of the enemy's presence.
The king of the Nguyen Dynasty, Vietnam's last ruling family, named the mountains after the five elements that make up the universe: (metal, wood, water, fire and earth). If you want to become at one with the universe, in characteristically business-like Vietnamese fashion you will be charged a small entry fee for each of the five elements with which you wish to harmonise.
8. My Son Sanctuary
© Photographer: Goodolga | Agency: Dreamstime.com
The Unesco-listed My Son Sanctuary, often described as a Hindu holy land, rests in a remote jungle valley ringed by two mountain ranges. My Son once hosted the religious ceremonies of kings of the Champa dynasty, which ruled southern and central Vietnam from around the 7th century to the 19th. Unfortunately most of it was obliterated by the US Air Force in the war, but what remains is interesting, if only because the Hindu relics seem so out of place this deep inside Indochina.
The sanctuary consists of a string of semi-ruined but imposing tower-temples built by means that modern architecture does not understand. Often likened to the Cambodian temple complex Angkor, which the Champa sacked, My Son is a spooky place as awash with butterflies as with the spirits of the dead.
One of the strangest sight you will see in its grounds is the two American bomb casings dating back to a 1963 raid. The casings' shape echoes the deliberately phallic stone columns scattered around the sanctuary.
9. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park
The karst (limestone crag) configurations at Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park stem from 400 million years of geological upheaval and growth. To get a sense of how slowly Phong Nha-Ke Bang evolved, consider that it takes a century for any of the stalactites or stalagmites to grow a single millimetre.
This Unesco site ranks as the oldest major karst area in Asia. It is big, too. Radiating from the border with Lao, Phong Nha-Ke Bang comprises 65 kilometres of caves and underground rivers. An adventure sports playground with a promising future.
10. Cham Museum, Danang.
This museum houses the world's finest collection of Cham sculpture and is a glorious testament to the artistic achievements of the Kingdom of Champa. The sandstone carvings of gods, beasts and celestial dancing girls possess exquisite beauty and grace and are so liberally displayed as to make it a challenge to fully appreciate this enchanting museum in a single visit.
By Simon Ramsden
Hoi An
If you fancy upgrading your wardrobe with shiny new threads, Hoi An is the place. Every other shop in this small, perfectly formed central Vietnamese town belongs to a tailor who will happily whip up a pair of slinky pyjamas or a silk kimono ('made-to-measure, Visa or Mastercard'). It will be made from the fruit of locally bred silkworms and, with luck, will fit perfectly and carry no size tag.
This fashion hub and Unesco World Heritage Site has long been a class act. In the 16th and 17th centuries, it was an international port called Faifo swarming with Chinese and Japanese merchants. Today, the exotic trader influence shines through in the shrines, silk shops, bridges and quaint tile-roofed wooden houses.
Because many of the downtown streets are closed to cars and even motorcycles on some days, they are great
for a wander. Although most shops target tourists, unusually for Vietnam, much of the town has been conserved. A heritage time capsule, this living museum of Vietnamese culture offers visitors the tranquility many need as an antidote to the mania of the country's cities, and from their lives back home.
The limited development that has been allowed has unfolded sympathetically, resulting in a minimum of tower blocks and karaoke parlours and a general lack of tat and tack. It feels "boutiquey" rather than "souveniry", to echo one observer.
When you tire of the lanterns, kites and looms, there is no need to pack up and leave. Just beyond the fringes of this most picturesque of towns, you will find plenty of momentous attractions, if little in the way of golf, although the area has five world-class courses in the pipeline.
Tempted? Hoi An is just down the road and is far quieter than Hanoi. Instead of honking horns and revving motorbikes, the prevalent sounds are whirring sewing machines, clinking chisels and softly shuffling flip-flops topped by sibilantly humming voices.
Give in to the temptation to fall into a trance, but try to snap out of it when you take a taxi, as you are still in the most commercial of countries. Confirm the cost and destination. Otherwise, expect to arrive at the wrong hotel, to be charged way too much and then to be stung for extras, such as for having too many shopping bags or for any other reason your driver can concoct, such as being a large person, or your belt causing wear-and-tear on the upholstery.
Finally, ensure you have plenty of traveller's cheques or stacks of cash. The reason: as in much of Vietnam, the ATMs have the distressingly capricious habit of, like casino one arm bandits, dispensing cash at random intervals or not at all.
For wireless internet access on what some Vietnamese call your 'toplap', try the Hai Scout cafe at 111 Tran Phu Street. Alternatively, try another old quarter stalwart, the chic and bare-bones Art Cafe at 30 Thai Hoc Street, which is a good place to relax and soak up Hoi An's ample atmosphere. "It nice," as the sign says.
Simon Ramsden lists the top ten attractions in or near a town with four UNESCO World Heritage sites within easy reach:
1. Japanese Covered Bridge
Surprisingly short and stocky, Hoi An's most famous landmark has a tall story behind it. The story begins with a monster called Cu, which was so big it had its head in India and its tail in Japan. The products of its nether regions, which are situated over Vietnam, have been credited with most of what is good, and bad, in the country's history.
In the 1590s a covered bridge was built in Hoi An to link the Japanese side of town with the Chinese quarter. According to the story, because the bridge spanned the weakest part of the monster, the pressure killed it.
Hence the shrine of atonement halfway across.
As if that legend were not odd enough, one entrance is guarded by a pair of monkeys and the other by a pair of dogs.
2. Hoi An Harbour
To see the harbour at its most magical, rise at daybreak and go to the bridge. A guide will take you out on a wood-boards-and-peeling-paint ferry for a fresh, laid-back take on the town. Bobbing and lolling around, you may feel that you have stepped back in time to the age of Marco Polo.
3. Tran Family Worship House
Ringed by a garden and high fences, the Old Town house could more accurately be described by a bourgeois word you are still not meant to use. Infused by Chinese and Japanese influences, the temple, sorry house, was constructed by a mandarin named Tran Tu Nhac.
Intriguingly designed, it splits into the main worship part and an annex for family and guests. The worship hall has three doors, each for a different type of visitor.
The left door is for men, the right for women. The middle door, for the grandparents, is opened during the Tet new year festival and on other celebratory days. If the place feels too rigid for your taste, try Phuc Kien Pagoda - the assembly hall-cum-temple for Chinese from the Fujian province who worship the Fujian god Tien Hau.
4. Cargo Club Restaurant and Patisserie
One of the joys of Hoi An is the eccentric English displayed on menus. Think "grilled tofu with grass" and "banana pancake with bile honey".
Set in an ancient, two-storey shophouse on one of Hoi An's liveliest streets, the Cargo Club at 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street serves up a few linguistic oddities of its own, including 'alsatian baguette'.
Nonetheless, the food is reliably delicious and diverse. The repertoire includes everything from spicy seafood noodle soup to roasted fennel and goat cheese salad. Adding to the attraction, the club has chic dark wood decor and a balcony that commands sweeping views of the harbour.
To get so close to the water that you could drink it, try Citronella Cafe at 5 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. But stick to the bottled water. For the purest water you can find, visit any of the stalls and cafes that sell green coconuts, where the vendor will hack one open for you with a machete. The coconut is free, but expect to pay for the straw to suck the juice out with.
5. Zen Spa
Founded to promote traditional Vietnamese therapy, Zen Spa (zenspa.com.vn) has two local branches. One, at the Hoi An Hotel, is right in the heart of town. The other, at the Hoi An Beach Resort is further out, by the seaside. Pampering services that come under the Zen Spa brand include facials, foot treatments, body scrubs, Pearl of Asia (incorporating exotic Thanh Long or 'dragon fruit'), Heaven and Earth (gentle body scrub with a great coconut aroma), The Five Elements ('fresh herbals and silver coins with ginger wine') and Forever Together ('fresh leaves and herbs'). Different.
So much appears in print about Hoi An's old quarter that the visitor may forget that the town lies beside the South China Sea. Fringed with palm trees, Hoi An's beach, Cua Dai, boasts clean white sand that stretches all the way to Danang and is short on hawkers: a blessing in a country where you are far too often assailed with the demand "You, buy my things."
7. Marble Mountains
These mountains are named after the crystalline metamorphic limestone from which they formed. Blessed with soaring, incense-filled caves and pagodas, the Marble Mountains have seen it all, fulfilling roles at various times in its history as a temple complex, battleground and hospital. In the latter of these roles injured Vietcong would convalesce whilst watching the ant-link figures of GI's playing on the beach below, oblivious of the enemy's presence.
The king of the Nguyen Dynasty, Vietnam's last ruling family, named the mountains after the five elements that make up the universe: (metal, wood, water, fire and earth). If you want to become at one with the universe, in characteristically business-like Vietnamese fashion you will be charged a small entry fee for each of the five elements with which you wish to harmonise.
8. My Son Sanctuary
© Photographer: Goodolga | Agency: Dreamstime.com
The Unesco-listed My Son Sanctuary, often described as a Hindu holy land, rests in a remote jungle valley ringed by two mountain ranges. My Son once hosted the religious ceremonies of kings of the Champa dynasty, which ruled southern and central Vietnam from around the 7th century to the 19th. Unfortunately most of it was obliterated by the US Air Force in the war, but what remains is interesting, if only because the Hindu relics seem so out of place this deep inside Indochina.
The sanctuary consists of a string of semi-ruined but imposing tower-temples built by means that modern architecture does not understand. Often likened to the Cambodian temple complex Angkor, which the Champa sacked, My Son is a spooky place as awash with butterflies as with the spirits of the dead.
One of the strangest sight you will see in its grounds is the two American bomb casings dating back to a 1963 raid. The casings' shape echoes the deliberately phallic stone columns scattered around the sanctuary.
9. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park
The karst (limestone crag) configurations at Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park stem from 400 million years of geological upheaval and growth. To get a sense of how slowly Phong Nha-Ke Bang evolved, consider that it takes a century for any of the stalactites or stalagmites to grow a single millimetre.
This Unesco site ranks as the oldest major karst area in Asia. It is big, too. Radiating from the border with Lao, Phong Nha-Ke Bang comprises 65 kilometres of caves and underground rivers. An adventure sports playground with a promising future.
10. Cham Museum, Danang.
This museum houses the world's finest collection of Cham sculpture and is a glorious testament to the artistic achievements of the Kingdom of Champa. The sandstone carvings of gods, beasts and celestial dancing girls possess exquisite beauty and grace and are so liberally displayed as to make it a challenge to fully appreciate this enchanting museum in a single visit.
About the author: Simon Ramsden is resident in Ao Nang Thailand and runs Thailand climbing trips to Koh Lao Liang, Koh Yao Noi, Koh Phi Phi and Railay/Tonsai.
November 24, 2009
Cat Ba Water Park Resort
© Photographer: Tasosk | Agency: Dreamstime.com
Cat Ba water park resort is less obtrusive than the high rises and crowded buildings of the town. Though the swimming pool can be seen from the sea there's a more seamless look to the place. It doesn't jar with its surroundings.
Cat Ba water Park resort has the all-important things a resort should have and a few nice extras you'd wish more did have. Set only a couple of minutes' walk to the main beach, the densely-packed Cat Co 1, and sharing the sand of its kind-of private beach with it, Cat Ba water park resort has those out-to-see views that can cost much more in other places. Less than a year old, it's already doing well, with an exceptionally friendly staff which exude genuinely warmth more than enforced civility, perfectly-main-tained surrounds and the kind of laid-back feeling the larger hotels can occasionally struggle to inspire.
With two generously sized swimming pools, one public and other solely for guests, plus plenty of space to recline and relax under blue umbrellas, Cat Ba Water Park Resort makes a nice break from the congestion of the town in summer months.
The water park, with two water slides looping down to a pool filled with big, floating toys, is open to the public for an entrance fee of 80000 VND. Despite this it remains relatively calm compared to the afternoon chaos of the main beaches.
As yet, spa facilities are very basic with small 'jacuzzi'. Which is more like a small indoor pool, and massage options limited to 'foot' or 'body' and sold in hour and half hour blocks. Saunas are also on offer, in rooms surrounding the jacuzzi area.
Rooms come in two basic varieties, Superior ($90/ night) and Deluxe ($110/night), with several suites in a separate building and one $500 a night President Suite, a multi-room apartment with huge private balcony.
The standard rooms are comfortably sized and decked out in white wicker. All have private balconies overlooking the sea and are the kind of light and breezy space you hope desperately for when booking at a beach resort - a perfect complement to the gorgeous view.
The seemingly large selection of TV channels is, in fact, small. Unless you're a fan of state-run television, of course. The mini-bar offers a little more than many hotels', with small small bottles of spirits along with the two cans of Tiger beer and soft drinks.
Cat Ba Water Park Resort has three restaurants, the western Captain's Cup, a mainly al fresco dining experience which includes seating in the prow of a ship and overlloks the private pool, the Asian-style Seashare restaurant and the upper-level Pirate's Grill.
A set menu at the Captain's Cup will set you back 120 000VND and consists of a salad, a soup, a main and a fruit plate. This being Cat Ba Island there is an obvious focus on seafood.
Cat ba Water Park Resort is still quite obviously finding its feet, but already the place is a relaxing way to spend a few days away from the city, or a luxurious alternative to sleeping on-board a boat at Ha Long Bay.
By Thanh Bui
Only a few years ago Cat Ba Island was a virtual paradise / wasteland, depending on what side of the development divide you stood, with few hotels of that elusive 'International standard. The town has certainly come on in some not-inconsiderable steps since and these days the view from the approaching hydrofoil is that of a nearly-built up holiday hotspot, with some hotel towers rising well over 10 stories and looking almost ill at ease against the verdant backdrop of the island.Cat Ba water park resort is less obtrusive than the high rises and crowded buildings of the town. Though the swimming pool can be seen from the sea there's a more seamless look to the place. It doesn't jar with its surroundings.
Cat Ba water Park resort has the all-important things a resort should have and a few nice extras you'd wish more did have. Set only a couple of minutes' walk to the main beach, the densely-packed Cat Co 1, and sharing the sand of its kind-of private beach with it, Cat Ba water park resort has those out-to-see views that can cost much more in other places. Less than a year old, it's already doing well, with an exceptionally friendly staff which exude genuinely warmth more than enforced civility, perfectly-main-tained surrounds and the kind of laid-back feeling the larger hotels can occasionally struggle to inspire.
With two generously sized swimming pools, one public and other solely for guests, plus plenty of space to recline and relax under blue umbrellas, Cat Ba Water Park Resort makes a nice break from the congestion of the town in summer months.
The water park, with two water slides looping down to a pool filled with big, floating toys, is open to the public for an entrance fee of 80000 VND. Despite this it remains relatively calm compared to the afternoon chaos of the main beaches.
As yet, spa facilities are very basic with small 'jacuzzi'. Which is more like a small indoor pool, and massage options limited to 'foot' or 'body' and sold in hour and half hour blocks. Saunas are also on offer, in rooms surrounding the jacuzzi area.
Rooms come in two basic varieties, Superior ($90/ night) and Deluxe ($110/night), with several suites in a separate building and one $500 a night President Suite, a multi-room apartment with huge private balcony.
The standard rooms are comfortably sized and decked out in white wicker. All have private balconies overlooking the sea and are the kind of light and breezy space you hope desperately for when booking at a beach resort - a perfect complement to the gorgeous view.
The seemingly large selection of TV channels is, in fact, small. Unless you're a fan of state-run television, of course. The mini-bar offers a little more than many hotels', with small small bottles of spirits along with the two cans of Tiger beer and soft drinks.
Cat Ba Water Park Resort has three restaurants, the western Captain's Cup, a mainly al fresco dining experience which includes seating in the prow of a ship and overlloks the private pool, the Asian-style Seashare restaurant and the upper-level Pirate's Grill.
A set menu at the Captain's Cup will set you back 120 000VND and consists of a salad, a soup, a main and a fruit plate. This being Cat Ba Island there is an obvious focus on seafood.
Cat ba Water Park Resort is still quite obviously finding its feet, but already the place is a relaxing way to spend a few days away from the city, or a luxurious alternative to sleeping on-board a boat at Ha Long Bay.
Threeland Travel is Vietnam Travel Agency which is offering professional and careful handling of all kinds of Vietnam Tours and Vietnam hotel service to you at competitive prices.
Note - At time of publication 1USD = 17,800VND
The Vinh Moc Tunnels of Vietcong Attract Tourists
© Photographer: Badboo | Agency: Dreamstime.com
By Ha Pham
In 1954, the French colonialists were finally defeated by the Viet Minh at the famous battle at Dien Bien Phu. By then, America was paying 80% of the French war costs.
Under the terms of the Geneva Accords, Vietnam was temporarily divided along the 17th parallel, pending internationally-supervised nationwide elections, intended to re-unite the country in 1956.
The demarcation line ran along the Ben Hai River, with a strip of no-man's land, 5 km wide on each side, known as the De-militarised Zone, or DMZ. All Viet Minh troops and supporters were supposed to regroup north, while the defeated French troops were evacuated.
The "anti-communist" government of the southern Republic of Vietnam, headed by the US-supported Ngo Dinh Diem, refused to hold the reunification elections, knowing that President Ho Chi Minh would have won overwhelmingly.
This led to a further 20 years of war - the American War.
In reality, both sides of the DMZ were anything but de-militarised, and the border was easily circumvented.
The Ho Chi Minh Trails to the west, and secret sea routes to the east, enabled the north to send supplies to the revolutionaries in the south, thus by-passing a string of American firebases overlooking the Ben Hai River.
Quang Tri and Quang Binh, the two provinces closest to the DMZ, were the most heavily bombed and saw the highest casualties, civilian and military, American and Vietnamese, during the American War.
Now, most bomb craters have been filled in, and there is a surprising green sea of rice, eucalyptus, acacia, pepper and rubber trees, but the terrible legacy of war still goes on:
US chemical weapons, such as Agent Orange, continue killing and affecting future generations with birth defects.
Unexploded bombs and landmines, lurking in the DMZ have, since 1975, caused many thousands of deaths and injuries, and continue to cause war casualties into the future.
'THE McNAMARA LINE'
One of the more fantastical efforts to prevent infiltration southwards, was US Secretary of Defence, Robert S. McNamara's proposal for an 'electronic fence' across the DMZ.
Known as "the McNamara Line", and running from the Vietnamese coast to the Mekong River, the idea was to use seismic and acoustic sensors to detect troop movements and pinpoint targets for bombing raids.
Though trials in 1967 met with some initial success, the costly plan was soon abandoned: the Vietnamese soon learnt how to 'confuse' the sensors and deliberately remove them and trigger them safely away from their trails.
Nor could massive bombing by artillery and aircraft defeat the North Vietnamese, who finally stormed the DMZ in 1972 and pushed the border 20 km further south.
So much firepower was unleashed over this area, including napalm and herbicides, that for years nothing would grow in the impacted, chemical-laden soil.
There was even an American plan to use nuclear bombs to create an impenetrable radiation zone across the DMZ. Fortunately, this did not eventuate, but the total tonnage of conventional bombing was equivalent to many times the power of the atomic bomb dropped by the US on the Japanese city of Hiroshima in 1945.
HIGHWAY ONE - NORTH OF HUE:"Road without joy"
American troops were not the first to suffer heavy losses in this region. During the 1950's, French soldiers dubbed the stretch of Highway 1 north of Hue as "street without joy", after they came under constant attack from elusive Viet Minh units operating out of heavily fortified villages along the coast.
QUANG TRI
In the 1972 Easter Offensive, revolutionary forces overran the whole area, liberating Quang Tri town (60 km north of Hue) from the South Vietnamese army (ARVN). They held it for months, while American B-52 bombers pounded the township and surrounding countryside with a tonnage of bombs equivalent to 8 Hiroshima nuclear bombs!
Eventually, it was retaken at huge cost to both sides, as well as civilians. The town was wiped off the map, and now little remains of the old Quang Tri Citadel, built in 1824 by king Minh Mang. The town of Trieu Hai has risen in its stead. The road and railway share a bridge over the Quang Tri River.
DONG HA
Dong Ha town - the most northerly main town in what used to be South Vietnam - took over as provincial capital when Quang Tri town ceased to exist. It is 13km north of Quang Tri town. As a former US Marine Command Post and then ARVN base, Dong Ha was also obliterated in 1972 but, unlike Quang Tri, it has bounced back, largely due to its location at the junction with Highway 9, which leads to Laos.
DOC MIEU FIREBASE
The American front line comprised a string of firebases set up on a long, low ridge of hills looking north across the DMZ and the featureless plain of the Ben Hai River.
8km south of the Ben Hai River and just off Highway 1, is this former American base, once part of 'the McNamara Line'. It has been extensively picked over by scrap-metal collectors, and recently by American veteran groups searching for MIAs (missing in actions). Most of the remains unearthed in recent years have been those of Vietnamese.
CON THIEN FIREBASE
This was America's largest firebase, first established by the Special Forces (Green Berets), and then handed over to the Marines in 1966. From here, their big guns could reach far into North Vietnam.
In the lead up to the 1968 Tet Offensive, as part of the diversionary attacks, the base became the target of prolonged shelling, followed by an infantry assault, during which it was briefly surrounded.
The Americans replied with everything in their arsenal, including long-range strafing from gunships in the East Sea, and carpet-bombing by B-52s. More than 40,000 tonnes of bombs were dropped around Con Thien, transforming the hills into a smoking moonscape. The revolutionaries were forced to withdraw temporarily, but then completely overran the base in the summer of 1972.
HIEN LUONG BRIDGE
15 km north of Dong Ha, Highway 1 drops down into the DMZ, running between paddy fields to the Ben Hai River, which lies virtually on the 17th parallel.
The original Hien Luong Bridge was destroyed by American bombing in 1967. At the time, it was painted ½ red and ½ yellow, a vivid reminder that this was a physical and ideological boundary separating the two zones of Viet Nam.
The present old iron-girder bridge was reconstructed in 1973, and officially re-opened in 1975 as a symbol of reunification. The current new bridge opened around 1999. The railway does not share the same bridge as Highway One.
Where Highway 1 crosses the Ben Hai River, there is a statue recording the dates of the temporary division in 1954, and the eventual reunification in 1975, and this famous quote from Ho Chi Minh:
"Vietnam is one country; the Vietnamese are one people. Rivers may dry up, and mountains may erode away, but nothing can change this truth." (Ho Chi Minh).
VINH MOC TUNNELS
About 16 kms from Highway 1, you can visit an amazing complex of tunnels, where over a thousand people sheltered, sometimes for weeks on end, during the worst American bombardments.
When American bombing raids north of the DMZ intensified in 1966, the inhabitants of Vinh Linh district began digging down into the red laterite soils, excavating more than 50 tunnels over the next two years.
Although they were also used by northern soldiers, the tunnels were primarily built to shelter a largely civilian population who worked the supply route from the Con Co Islands offshore.
Five tunnels belonged to Vinh Moc, a village located right on the coast. For two years, 250 people dug more than 2km of tunnel, which housed all 600 villagers over varying periods from early 1967 until 1969, when ½ decamped north to the relative safety of Nghe An Province.
The tunnels were constructed on three levels at 10, 15 and 20-23m deep, with good ventilation, freshwater wells and, eventually, a generator and lights. The underground village was also equipped with school, clinics, and a maternity room where 17 children were born. Each family was allocated a tiny cavern, barely larger than a single bed. These tunnels were built taller than the Cu Chi Tunnels.
In 1972, the villagers of Vinh Moc could finally abandon their underground existence and rebuild their homes, rejoined by relatives from Nghe An one year later.
By Ha Pham
In 1954, the French colonialists were finally defeated by the Viet Minh at the famous battle at Dien Bien Phu. By then, America was paying 80% of the French war costs.
Under the terms of the Geneva Accords, Vietnam was temporarily divided along the 17th parallel, pending internationally-supervised nationwide elections, intended to re-unite the country in 1956.
The demarcation line ran along the Ben Hai River, with a strip of no-man's land, 5 km wide on each side, known as the De-militarised Zone, or DMZ. All Viet Minh troops and supporters were supposed to regroup north, while the defeated French troops were evacuated.
The "anti-communist" government of the southern Republic of Vietnam, headed by the US-supported Ngo Dinh Diem, refused to hold the reunification elections, knowing that President Ho Chi Minh would have won overwhelmingly.
This led to a further 20 years of war - the American War.
In reality, both sides of the DMZ were anything but de-militarised, and the border was easily circumvented.
The Ho Chi Minh Trails to the west, and secret sea routes to the east, enabled the north to send supplies to the revolutionaries in the south, thus by-passing a string of American firebases overlooking the Ben Hai River.
Quang Tri and Quang Binh, the two provinces closest to the DMZ, were the most heavily bombed and saw the highest casualties, civilian and military, American and Vietnamese, during the American War.
Now, most bomb craters have been filled in, and there is a surprising green sea of rice, eucalyptus, acacia, pepper and rubber trees, but the terrible legacy of war still goes on:
US chemical weapons, such as Agent Orange, continue killing and affecting future generations with birth defects.
Unexploded bombs and landmines, lurking in the DMZ have, since 1975, caused many thousands of deaths and injuries, and continue to cause war casualties into the future.
'THE McNAMARA LINE'
One of the more fantastical efforts to prevent infiltration southwards, was US Secretary of Defence, Robert S. McNamara's proposal for an 'electronic fence' across the DMZ.
Known as "the McNamara Line", and running from the Vietnamese coast to the Mekong River, the idea was to use seismic and acoustic sensors to detect troop movements and pinpoint targets for bombing raids.
Though trials in 1967 met with some initial success, the costly plan was soon abandoned: the Vietnamese soon learnt how to 'confuse' the sensors and deliberately remove them and trigger them safely away from their trails.
Nor could massive bombing by artillery and aircraft defeat the North Vietnamese, who finally stormed the DMZ in 1972 and pushed the border 20 km further south.
So much firepower was unleashed over this area, including napalm and herbicides, that for years nothing would grow in the impacted, chemical-laden soil.
There was even an American plan to use nuclear bombs to create an impenetrable radiation zone across the DMZ. Fortunately, this did not eventuate, but the total tonnage of conventional bombing was equivalent to many times the power of the atomic bomb dropped by the US on the Japanese city of Hiroshima in 1945.
HIGHWAY ONE - NORTH OF HUE:"Road without joy"
American troops were not the first to suffer heavy losses in this region. During the 1950's, French soldiers dubbed the stretch of Highway 1 north of Hue as "street without joy", after they came under constant attack from elusive Viet Minh units operating out of heavily fortified villages along the coast.
QUANG TRI
In the 1972 Easter Offensive, revolutionary forces overran the whole area, liberating Quang Tri town (60 km north of Hue) from the South Vietnamese army (ARVN). They held it for months, while American B-52 bombers pounded the township and surrounding countryside with a tonnage of bombs equivalent to 8 Hiroshima nuclear bombs!
Eventually, it was retaken at huge cost to both sides, as well as civilians. The town was wiped off the map, and now little remains of the old Quang Tri Citadel, built in 1824 by king Minh Mang. The town of Trieu Hai has risen in its stead. The road and railway share a bridge over the Quang Tri River.
DONG HA
Dong Ha town - the most northerly main town in what used to be South Vietnam - took over as provincial capital when Quang Tri town ceased to exist. It is 13km north of Quang Tri town. As a former US Marine Command Post and then ARVN base, Dong Ha was also obliterated in 1972 but, unlike Quang Tri, it has bounced back, largely due to its location at the junction with Highway 9, which leads to Laos.
DOC MIEU FIREBASE
The American front line comprised a string of firebases set up on a long, low ridge of hills looking north across the DMZ and the featureless plain of the Ben Hai River.
8km south of the Ben Hai River and just off Highway 1, is this former American base, once part of 'the McNamara Line'. It has been extensively picked over by scrap-metal collectors, and recently by American veteran groups searching for MIAs (missing in actions). Most of the remains unearthed in recent years have been those of Vietnamese.
CON THIEN FIREBASE
This was America's largest firebase, first established by the Special Forces (Green Berets), and then handed over to the Marines in 1966. From here, their big guns could reach far into North Vietnam.
In the lead up to the 1968 Tet Offensive, as part of the diversionary attacks, the base became the target of prolonged shelling, followed by an infantry assault, during which it was briefly surrounded.
The Americans replied with everything in their arsenal, including long-range strafing from gunships in the East Sea, and carpet-bombing by B-52s. More than 40,000 tonnes of bombs were dropped around Con Thien, transforming the hills into a smoking moonscape. The revolutionaries were forced to withdraw temporarily, but then completely overran the base in the summer of 1972.
HIEN LUONG BRIDGE
15 km north of Dong Ha, Highway 1 drops down into the DMZ, running between paddy fields to the Ben Hai River, which lies virtually on the 17th parallel.
The original Hien Luong Bridge was destroyed by American bombing in 1967. At the time, it was painted ½ red and ½ yellow, a vivid reminder that this was a physical and ideological boundary separating the two zones of Viet Nam.
The present old iron-girder bridge was reconstructed in 1973, and officially re-opened in 1975 as a symbol of reunification. The current new bridge opened around 1999. The railway does not share the same bridge as Highway One.
Where Highway 1 crosses the Ben Hai River, there is a statue recording the dates of the temporary division in 1954, and the eventual reunification in 1975, and this famous quote from Ho Chi Minh:
"Vietnam is one country; the Vietnamese are one people. Rivers may dry up, and mountains may erode away, but nothing can change this truth." (Ho Chi Minh).
VINH MOC TUNNELS
About 16 kms from Highway 1, you can visit an amazing complex of tunnels, where over a thousand people sheltered, sometimes for weeks on end, during the worst American bombardments.
When American bombing raids north of the DMZ intensified in 1966, the inhabitants of Vinh Linh district began digging down into the red laterite soils, excavating more than 50 tunnels over the next two years.
Although they were also used by northern soldiers, the tunnels were primarily built to shelter a largely civilian population who worked the supply route from the Con Co Islands offshore.
Five tunnels belonged to Vinh Moc, a village located right on the coast. For two years, 250 people dug more than 2km of tunnel, which housed all 600 villagers over varying periods from early 1967 until 1969, when ½ decamped north to the relative safety of Nghe An Province.
The tunnels were constructed on three levels at 10, 15 and 20-23m deep, with good ventilation, freshwater wells and, eventually, a generator and lights. The underground village was also equipped with school, clinics, and a maternity room where 17 children were born. Each family was allocated a tiny cavern, barely larger than a single bed. These tunnels were built taller than the Cu Chi Tunnels.
In 1972, the villagers of Vinh Moc could finally abandon their underground existence and rebuild their homes, rejoined by relatives from Nghe An one year later.
26 Dong Khoi Street, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City
5 Nguyen Truong To Street, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi, Vietnam
Website: http://www.LuxuryTravelVietnam.com
============================================
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November 18, 2009
People Of Cambodia - 2010 Calendars
Brand new, the spectacular new 2010 Calendar is now for sale! It features some great images of local Khmer's from my recent travels to the Kingdom.
And because I love it so much, all 4 calenders on offer are now going for under 20 bucks, so there's really no reason at not get one for yourself or grab a couple - they make wicked Xmas gifts for friends and family!
Click on the image below to view the calendar in it's entirety and to see the other ones on offer or click here - 2010 Calendars!
November 17, 2009
To Cambodia and Back......
I have just returned from leading a tour in Cambodia and while the weather was hot, very hot, I had great time traveling with a great bunch of people checking out the sights and meeting some more fantastic Khmers!
Below are a few images from my travels and you can see many more on my photography blog at http://www.imagesfromvietnamandcambodia.com.
In the mean time, be sure to stay tuned. VietnamandCambodia.com will be starting up a great photography comp where you can win cash prizes!
To make sure you don't miss out Subscribe to Vietnam and Cambodia by Email!
Young Khmer kids riding motor bike
Approaching Phnom Penh Airport
Hot Air Balloon giving great views over Angkor Wat
Khmer guys with cattle near Naga Bridge
Approaching Phnom Penh Airport
Khmer Couple riding overloaded motor bike
Lady selling Lotus Seeds
Phnom Bros
Travelers watching sunrise over Angkor Wat.
November 09, 2009
Destination Vietnam - From the Mekong River Delta to Ha Long Bay
Fortunately, the present-day experience of traveling from South Vietnam to North Vietnam is not at all like it was during our parents' time. Instead of fighting from a swift boat in the Mekong Delta, you can now be enjoying cheap beer on a luxury liner. You can even make silly television shows about making the entire South-to-North trek on underpowered motor scooters in the rain. Either way you look at it, the experience is, shall we say, a lot safer. This is even true if you are stupid enough to be taking a scooter into Vietnam traffic as an inexperienced Westerner, but just barely so.
Vietnam is a stunning country with rich history, beautiful, powerful scenery, and it is a good value destination on top of that. It is also popular as a destination for some of the older crowd. There is a generation of tourists out there, freshly retired, who want to visit the country under more favorable circumstances than they did in the past, people who want to choose to visit the country rather than be forced to do so.
Starting in the South, cruising the Mekong River is a popular place to start. Many travelers choose to start in Cambodia and cruise down the river before disembarking outside Ho Chi Minh (Saigon for all you old-schoolers out there) and taking a bus in. Another highlight of a trip in the area can be taking the Cu Chi tunnels into the city instead. The Viet Cong dug this nearly 200 kilometer-long network of tunnels to infiltrate American camps in Saigon during the war.
Ho Chi Minh City is a bustling, modern city, and the most populous one in Vietnam. It is also a traffic nightmare, as well as an excellent place to go shopping and pick up some trinkets for the folks back home. Don't forget the Presidential Palace and possibly a visit to the War Remnants Museum while staying here.
Next on the list of places to see would have to be Nha Trang, consistently ranked as one of the top beaches in Vietnam, as well as one of the most beautiful bays in the world. The scuba diving in particular is making this a huge backpacker destination. More and more, however, the big tour companies are also catching on to this fact. Just check out a comparison of Vietnam tours, browse around, and you will find that many of these tours include Nha Trang. Additionally, it was the site of Miss Universe 2008, and will play host to Miss World 2010. Not my thing, to be sure, but for some, I guess this is an attraction.
Most people do not have forever to dilly-dally in Vietnam, so for the next major attraction on the list, we are going to have to jump all the way forward to Hoi An, home to numerous small museums concerning the history and culture of the region. This ancient town has been remarkably well-preserved over the years, well enough for the area to be recognized as an UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a traditional South-East Asian trading port.
Hue is another great ancient city with an amazing amount of monuments . This was the Royal City, the ancient capital of Vietnam. The "Pass of the Ocean Clouds" is supposed to be an unforgettable drive. Our imaginary itinerary next takes us to Hanoi, the capital and second largest city of Vietnam. Hanoi has been a city for nearly 1000 years, and this has necessarily left its mark on the area. If you want culture, history, urban tourist attractions, and the like, the city is definitely a must-see.
Of course, the true must-see destination of Vietnam, and where we will end our journey, is Ha Long Bay. This site should be recognizable to backpackers, seasoned world trekkers, and even those armchair travelers out there whose idea of travel is watching an old VHS flick on the tube television. This was where the young couple floated around for days in Indochine (an amazingly beautiful movie, which I highly recommend, by the way.) In more recent times it was highlighted in Tomorrow Never Dies, one of the forgettable Pierce Brosnan Bond films.
Beyond all that, it is shockingly beautiful. The landscape is utterly surreal, with over 2000 small limestone islands erupting from the placid jade waters. A complex of grottos and caves, mountains and beaches, floating fishing villages and spectacular sunsets should enthrall you. Silently, you mourn the fact that you must inevitably return from this island paradise to the drudgery and office politics of the paper company you work for in Scranton.I'm a world traveler and recent Columbia University graduate. I'm looking to share some of my experiences/tips with others so they can discover their next perfect trip. I'm a little older than your usual graduate, because I took gobs of time off to travel extensively!
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Images By Adam Hurley
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